Kampala, Uganda On a serene hill just five kilometers northwest of Kampala's bustling center lies a place of profound spiritual and historical importance: the Kasubi Tombs. This sprawling 26-hectare site is more than just a burial ground; it's the final resting place of four powerful Kabakas (kings of Buganda) and other members of the Baganda royal family, making it a vital spiritual and political hub for the Ganda people. It's also a stunning example of traditional African architecture, a fact recognized by UNESCO, which declared it a World Heritage Site in December 2001. UNESCO called it "one of the most remarkable buildings using purely vegetal materials in the entire region of sub-Saharan Africa."
A Legacy Spanning Centuries
The heart of the Kasubi Tombs complex is a royal palace, originally built in 1882 by Muteesa I, the 35th Kabaka of Buganda. This new palace became a sacred burial ground upon his death in 1884. What makes Kasubi unique is its departure from an older tradition. Historically, a deceased king's body was buried in one location, with a separate shrine for his jawbone, believed to hold his soul. However, at Kasubi, four Kabakas are interred together:
• Muteesa I (1835–1884)
• Mwanga II (1867–1903) – his remains were returned from exile in the Seychelles in 1910.
• Daudi Chwa II (1896–1939)
• Sir Edward Muteesa II (1924–1969) – his remains were returned from exile in London in 1971.
Descendants of these kings are also buried elsewhere on the vast site. The boundaries of this ceremonial site, established in 1882, are still marked by bark cloth trees (Ficus natalensis), which have helped protect it from the modern low-rise buildings that now surround it.
Architectural Marvel and Sacred Spaces
The main ceremonial area lies in the northwest, leading visitors through a gatehouse (Bujjabukula), a small courtyard, and the drum house (Ndoga-Obukaba), which holds the royal drums. This path then opens into a large circular courtyard (Olugya), enclosed by a reed fence.
The most striking structure is the central building, Muzibu Azaala Mpanga. This impressive dome-shaped building is about 31 meters (102 ft) around and 7.5 meters (25 ft) high. Originally, it was crafted from wooden poles, reed wattle, and daub, topped with a thick thatched dome made of straw resting on 52 rings of palm fronds, symbolizing the 52 traditional clans of the Baganda people. While modern materials like steel, concrete, and bricks were introduced in a 1938 renovation, they were carefully hidden behind the traditional facade to preserve its authentic look.
Inside, a low, wide arch leads to sacred spaces divided by reed partitions, adorned with bark cloth decorations and mementos of the Kabakas. The tombs themselves are hidden from public view by a barkcloth curtain, nestled within a sacred forest called Kibira. The floor is covered with a traditional mix of lemon grass and palm leaf mats.
Surrounding the courtyard are other traditionally built structures, including "wives houses" for the deceased Kabakas' widows, who care for the graves. These houses, traditionally made of wattle and daub with thatched roofs, have seen some modern updates over time. The site is also home to members of the royal family and key royal officials, like the Nalinya (spiritual guardian) and the Lubuga (responsible for coordinating farming). It's a living center where traditional bark cloth is made and decorated by the Ngo clan, and the Ngeye clan preserves ancient thatching techniques.
The Buganda Kingdom, the largest of Uganda's four ancient kingdoms, managed and maintained the site until its abolition in 1966 by Prime Minister (later President) Milton Obote. After the kingdom was reinstated by President Museveni in 1993, its stewardship resumed. In 1972, the Kasubi Tombs became a protected site under Ugandan law, with the land officially registered in the name of the Kabaka, representing the Kingdom.
The Fire and the Road to Restoration
Tragically, on March 16, 2010, at around 8:30 pm local time, the Kasubi Tombs were almost completely destroyed by a fire. The cause of this devastating incident remains unknown. The Buganda Kingdom vowed to conduct its own investigation alongside the national police.
John Bosco Walusimbi, then Prime Minister of the Buganda Kingdom, expressed the profound sorrow, stating on March 17, "The kingdom is in mourning. There are no words to describe the loss occasioned by this most callous act." Thankfully, he confirmed that the remains of the Kabakas in the inner sanctum were protected from total destruction.
The day after the fire, His Majesty the Kabaka of Buganda, Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II, and President Yoweri Museveni visited the devastated site. Hundreds of people also rushed to help salvage any remains. However, the visit was marred by riots, where security forces clashed with rioters, leading to two (some reports say three) deaths and several injuries. Ugandan soldiers and police used tear gas to disperse the rioters, who were mainly from the Baganda ethnic group.
This unfortunate incident occurred during a strained relationship between the Ugandan government and the Buganda Kingdom, especially after the September 2009 riots, where the Kabaka was prevented from visiting parts of his kingdom.
Despite the challenges, the Buganda Kingdom pledged to rebuild the tombs, a promise locally known as "tofaali." President Museveni confirmed that the national government would assist in the restoration efforts. A commission was established to investigate the fire and the civilian deaths, submitting a report in March 2011, though it has not been publicly released.
By December 2012, a restoration plan was launched with the help of foreign aid. Reconstruction officially began in 2014, with significant funding from the government of Japan. The Buganda government has also put a strong emphasis on security measures during the rebuilding process, restricting entry to the tombs. In response to the fire, UNESCO, through its Japanese Funds-in-Trust for the Preservation of the World Cultural Heritage, dispatched a mission to create a prevention scheme for the reconstruction. Based on this, Japan decided to provide project funding for the reconstruction, aiming for the site's removal from the List of World Heritage in Danger, and to help establish an effective risk prevention system, as well as sending experts in cultural property restoration.
The Kasubi Tombs, though scarred, continue to be a powerful symbol of Buganda's rich history, enduring culture, and the resilience of its people.
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